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Before visiting Panama I was under impression that coffee was grown, harvested, roasted, and delivered. Not much else was required, or so I thought. A visit to Kotowa Coffee Estate changed all that. Boquete is coffee country with its rich black volcanic soil, frequent fog, and great variety of trees, like cedar, ash, guayaba, and cuellito. As your eyes scan hillsides, you’ll notice all trees, including Valencia oranges – imports from California .
But where, you may ask, are all coffee plants? Soon you’ll discover nestled underneath aforementioned shade trees are tall coffee shrubs, in season laden with ripe, red berries. The bean is actually seed of berry and that’s where fun begins. A process that requires picking red berries at precisely right time — not too green and not past red — means plants progress is continually monitored, often up to three times a day. Beans are picked on schedule and begin a journey of separation by size, weight, and density, all designed to bring best quality beans to surface. Boquete coffee is 100% Arabian — no bitter Robusta beans used here. Those are for “mass” coffee growers in Brazil and Vietnam. Ultimately, process has about a dozen steps which will take several months from picking to roasting. You’ll learn about it from A to Z and enjoy some delicious home grown coffee on any number of tours. We enjoyed three-hour outing hosted by Terry and Hans Van Niekerk; call (507) 720-3852 or (507) 634-4698.
Dining Is Evolving Delightfully
The Boquete restaurant scene is small and constantly changing. Standouts in center of town include Boquete Bistro, owned by Loretta Bonfiglio, an Aspen transplant, who cooks up an enjoyable mix of Latin and American dishes. Hibiscus, a French restaurant started by Parisian-trained Christophe Giroud, who returned to Boquete with his Panamanian wife to start new business. Both restaurants serve lunch and dinner entreés under US$10. The best dining in town, both for food and ambiance is right at Panamonte. Charlie Collins, son of owner, is a well-known chef d’cuisine who has consulted with Panamanian presidents and has a successful catering and retail business in Panama City . Collins created menu and oversees dining room which features fresh fish including trout, salmon, and corvina (sea bass), as well as New York steaks, rib-eyes, fillet of beef, plus grilled pork chops, and my personal favorite, Mignon de Cerdo (Grilled Pork Mignon). There’s a delicious shrimp and plantain appetizer and a lemon meringue pie that is famous. Entreés run US$8.50-$11.00. They also have best wine selection in town, with French, California, and Chilean varietals well represented.
Relax In The Spa
Kate Traicos has managed spas in five countries, including three in Africa where she worked for several years in connection with upscale safari trade. Recently, she took over as manager of The Panamonte Spa to delight of her expanding clientele. Located on second floor of inn spa is rapidly becoming THE place in Boquete for everything from therapeutic massage, hot stone treatments, aromatherapy to reflexology, and shiatsu to facials. Currently, spa occupies one large room divided into three, white-linen, tent-type, private treatment areas that provide calming environments for her clients with a separate room for couples massage. In works are a steam room, hot tub, and additional massage spaces, plus Kate expects to introduce first yoga classes in town, most likely by time of this writing. Prices are reasonable, especially by U.S. standards, with a full-body, one-hour massage at US$50 and other treatments ranging from US$35-US$95. Call inn’s main number for reservations (507) 720-1324 or e-mail Kate at spa@panamonteinnandspa.com
The Inn Is Growing
A wonderful catch for Panamonte has been manager E. David Brewer, who joined team last year. His three decades of management experience, first at Little Dix Bay Resort in Virgin Gorda, B.V.I., then at Kapalua Bay Hotel on Maui prior to 15 years at Caneel Bay Resort, St. John, U.S.V.I., plus additional stints in Jamaica, Antigua, and Seychelles, add up to a career of running some of finest resorts in world. David is a man in motion who can be found darting around inn on his mission to make experience more unique. He has seen it all when it comes to upscale hospitality trade, so his confidence and know-how translate into a gracious way with guests. Working closely with Inga Collins on new ideas for inn, David reports plans for ten new rooms in addition to spa improvements already in works. He promises first new addition in decades will in no way interfere with Panamonte’s present allure.
Boquete Is Wired
Jim Hollister, Jetsetters Magazine Editor – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com
Jim Hollister, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com