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Before visiting Panama I was under
impression that coffee was grown, harvested, roasted, and delivered. Not much else was required, or so I thought. A visit to
Kotowa Coffee Estate changed all that. Boquete is coffee country with its rich black volcanic soil, frequent fog, and great variety of trees, like cedar, ash, guayaba, and cuellito. As your eyes scan
hillsides, you’ll notice all
trees, including
Valencia oranges – imports from California .
But where, you may ask, are all
coffee plants? Soon you’ll discover nestled underneath
aforementioned shade trees are tall coffee shrubs, in season laden with ripe, red berries. The bean is actually
seed of
berry and that’s where
fun begins. A process that requires picking
red berries at precisely
right time — not too green and not past red — means
plants progress is continually monitored, often up to three times a day. Beans are picked on schedule and begin a journey of separation by size, weight, and density, all designed to bring
best quality beans to
surface. Boquete coffee is 100% Arabian — no bitter Robusta beans used here. Those are for
“mass” coffee growers in Brazil and Vietnam. Ultimately,
process has about a dozen steps which will take several months from picking to roasting. You’ll learn about it from A to Z and enjoy some delicious home grown coffee on any number of tours. We enjoyed
three-hour outing hosted by Terry and Hans Van Niekerk; call (507) 720-3852 or (507) 634-4698.
Dining Is Evolving Delightfully
The Boquete restaurant scene is small and constantly changing. Standouts in
center of town include Boquete Bistro, owned by Loretta Bonfiglio, an Aspen transplant, who cooks up an enjoyable mix of Latin and American dishes. Hibiscus, a French restaurant started by Parisian-trained Christophe Giroud, who returned to Boquete with his Panamanian wife to start
new business. Both restaurants serve lunch and dinner entreés under US$10. The best dining in town, both for food and ambiance is right at
Panamonte. Charlie Collins, son of
owner, is a well-known chef d’cuisine who has consulted with Panamanian presidents and has a successful catering and retail business in Panama City . Collins created
menu and oversees
dining room which features fresh fish including trout, salmon, and corvina (sea bass), as well as New York steaks, rib-eyes, fillet of beef, plus grilled pork chops, and my personal favorite, Mignon de Cerdo (Grilled Pork Mignon). There’s a delicious shrimp and plantain appetizer and a lemon meringue pie that is famous. Entreés run US$8.50-$11.00. They also have
best wine selection in town, with French, California, and Chilean varietals well represented.
Relax In The Spa
Kate Traicos has managed spas in five countries, including three in Africa where she worked for several years in connection with
upscale safari trade. Recently, she took over as manager of The Panamonte Spa to
delight of her expanding clientele. Located on
second floor of
inn
spa is rapidly becoming THE place in Boquete for everything from therapeutic massage, hot stone treatments, aromatherapy to reflexology, and shiatsu to facials. Currently,
spa occupies one large room divided into three, white-linen, tent-type, private treatment areas that provide calming environments for her clients with a separate room for couples massage. In
works are a steam room, hot tub, and additional massage spaces, plus Kate expects to introduce
first yoga classes in town, most likely by
time of this writing. Prices are reasonable, especially by U.S. standards, with a full-body, one-hour massage at US$50 and other treatments ranging from US$35-US$95. Call
inn’s main number for reservations (507) 720-1324 or e-mail Kate at spa@panamonteinnandspa.com
The Inn Is Growing
A wonderful catch for
Panamonte has been manager E. David Brewer, who joined
team last year. His three decades of management experience, first at Little Dix Bay Resort in Virgin Gorda, B.V.I., then at Kapalua Bay Hotel on Maui prior to 15 years at Caneel Bay Resort, St. John, U.S.V.I., plus additional stints in Jamaica, Antigua, and
Seychelles, add up to a career of running some of
finest resorts in
world. David is a man in motion who can be found darting around
inn on his mission to make
experience more unique. He has seen it all when it comes to
upscale hospitality trade, so his confidence and know-how translate into a gracious way with guests. Working closely with Inga Collins on new ideas for
inn, David reports plans for ten new rooms in addition to
spa improvements already in
works. He promises
first new addition in decades will in no way interfere with
Panamonte’s present allure.
Boquete Is Wired
Jim Hollister, Jetsetters Magazine Editor – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com

Jim Hollister, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent. Join the Travel Writers Network in the logo at www.jetsettersmagazine.com