The inn is only Martha’s Vineyard member of Relais & Chateaux, fifty-year old association of some 400 plus privately-owned hotels and gourmet restaurants in 40 countries throughout world. Some are countryside locations, others are former estates, castles, abbeys, or private residences, and according to their marketing mantra, all deliver standard 5C’s of character, courtesy, calm, charm, and cuisine. Leading travel, leisure, and gourmet magazines have repeatedly named The Charlotte Inn one best in America.

Entering through front door into a foyer resplendent in fine antiques and paintings, you get a thrilling sense of having traveled back in time. Straight ahead you approach grand mahogany desk to sign an old-fashioned ledger and be greeted by Manager Carol Read, a charming, 40-something woman whose reading glasses, perched perilously upon her nose, convey her thoughtful nature. “How was ferry ride?” she asks in a warm and welcoming tone, and then, “Let’s get you settled in and we can talk about where you’d like to have dinner.” After a short orientation of main house, including brief respite in aforementioned Green Room, we are led, literally, along garden path to our weekend retreat.

We establish ourselves in Carriage House suite, one of two at inn, and I can tell immediately it suits

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Jim Hollister , Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com

It's not just any pool, though. It's fed by hot springs up valley. For over 100 years people have taken comfort in these healing waters.

Accommodations at Drakesbad are rustic but very clean and comfortable. Our room, paneled in knotty pine, had its own half bath, but for showers, we used bathhouse down by pool. A few of cabins have full baths, and seasoned Drakesbad guests were heard to suggest that taking such a cabin would be "copping out" on Drakesbad way of life. Mind you, same guests were heard to suggest that brushing your hair for dinner was also copping out.

Drakesbad is plenty kid friendly, with games and puzzles in common lodge, a ping pong table, and a terrific tire swing in shape of a pony. Even swimming pool toys are provided.

The dinner bell rings promptly at six, but there's no hurry. Show up any time before seven and you'll be fed, and fed well. We dined on tilapia and fresh vegetables, prepared with an Asian flair. Our hosts, Ed and Billie, made rounds, welcoming new guests and sharing pictures from previous years with regulars. The youngster at our table bolted his food and rushed out to join sunset horseback ride with other kids while his mom enjoyed her meal at a more leisurely pace.

The kids returned as evening settled in around us. Dusk hours at Drakesbad are quiet but still social, with families playing board games in lodge or sitting around campfire. Drakesbad generously supplies makings for s'Mores, but you'll want to get there quick if there are a lot of kids around - any that weren't on ride had rushed to campfire to build their own toasted marshmallow treats. The lights go out around 10 p.m., leaving you to starlight and glow of kerosene lanterns. You can soak in pool under stars or curl up in comfort of your room.

Gourmet Dining at Drakesbad - Ranch StyleBreakfast follows same routine as dinner, with a bell to let you know that it's time to fuel up for day. We had 'scrambles' just way I like them (and I'm fussy about my eggs!). Ed poured hot chocolate for our young table mate with flair of finest of European maitre 'ds. The sack lunches, ordered at dinner night before were stacked on stairs, ready for hikers and riders.

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Pam, Jetsetters Magazine Correspondent – Read Jetsetters Magazine at www.jetsettersmagazine.com To book travel visit Jetstreams.com at www.jetstreams.com and for Beach Resorts visit Beach Booker at www.beachbooker.com