Taping and Mudding

Again start with ceiling. Apply a skim coat of joint compound over surface of a seam using a 6” wide taping knife. If seam is wide, apply a liberal amount of joint compound to fill it. While Joint compound is still wet, apply fiberglass tape over skim coat of Joint Compound. Make sure seam is centered under tape. Once tape has been installed, apply additional Joint Compound over tape, again using 6” wide taping knife. Continue this for all of seams. Note: tape will still be visible. Additional coats will eventually hide it.

The inside corners are usually most tricky and require practice. Patience is best advice and note that additional coats will be applied later to smooth out any imperfections. Once seams are done, using 6” wide taping knife, apply mud to all of screw/nail dimples. A skim coat is all that is initially required.

Note: When applying mud over tape and screw/nail dimples, make sure all excess material and uneven patches are smoothed down with blade. This will reduce sanding later. Once ceiling is done, you can move on to walls. Repeat same process, however with outside corners just apply a liberal coat of joint compound to valley that is formed by corner bead. This valley typically represents first 3 or 4 inches from edge of corner.

Once first coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting second application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off taping knife, mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for day.

Applying Second Coat of Mud

After first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply second coat of mud. It is this coat that should hide tape. Again, start with ceiling. Using wider taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound over taped seams as you want to build up area over tape. Taking large strokes smooth joint compound over tape applying more pressure to side of taping knife further away from tape. This will help to leave more mud over tape. When complete, mud should cover an area that extends beyond width of tape by 2 to 3 inches.

After seams have all been completed, apply a second coat of mud over screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out mud over dimples such that diameter of mudded area is about 3-4 inches in diameter.

For inside corners a Corner knife may come in handy. Corners involve a little artistry so again take your time. Apply a generous amount of joint compound and then run Corner knife down corner starting from top. Take long, even strokes. A 6” taping knife may also be helpful to smooth out any imperfections. For outside corners, using broad taping knife apply a generous amount of joint compound and flare out material such that it extends out 6 inches or so from corner. Again, apply more pressure to blade side that is further away from corner so that you leave more mud nearer outside corner.

Once second coat has been applied let it sit overnight or until it is dry, prior to starting final application of Joint compound. Make sure to completely clean off taping knife, mud easel and any other containers or instruments that have mud on them prior to finishing up for day.

Applying Final Coat of Mud

After first coat has thoroughly dried, it is now time to apply final coat of mud. It is this coat that requires most artistry and least amount of joint compound. Here you are simply applying a final skim coat to already mudded areas.

Prior to applying skim coat it is best to take your wide taping blade and lightly pass over mudded surfaces. This will remove any bumps or ridges.

Again start with ceiling seams and apply a small amount of joint compound using broad taping knife. Again continue to flare out seam by extending mudded area such that about 6 inches resides on each side of now invisible tape. Remember this is a skim coat so little mud is required. The purpose of this coat is to effectively fill in any lines or recessed areas.

After seams have all been completed, apply a final coat of mud over screw/nail dimples. With this second coat, flare out mud over dimples such that diameter of mudded area is about 6-8 inches in diameter. For corners use broad taping knife and add just enough mud such that you can flare out mudded surface area to about 8-12 inches, taking care to filling in any lines or dimples. Once final coat has been applied let it rest overnight or until it is dry,

Sanding

Sanding is a very dusty and dirty mess so please uses goggles and a mask.

I find it best to use a pole sander with an open screened sand paper material specifically designed for sanding sheetrock/drywall mud. Lightly sand all of taped areas, however concentrate sanding on outer edges of mudded areas such that all seams and ridges are eliminated and blend into main surface areas.

Once sanding is complete, vacuum up dust and you are ready for priming and painting walls and texturing ceilings.

Me_Donovan@comcast.net http://www.homeadditionplus.com http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com

What choices do I have for size?

Most gazebo manufacturers make three specific sizes. First, you have smaller size, which measures 7.5 x 6.5-feet, followed by family size that is 11 x 9.5-feet, and finally, grand size that is 18 x 15.5-feet. Now keep in mind that you can also buy plans to build your own gazebo or hire a professional to construct one that is custom made if you want a smaller or larger size. Additionally, with these options, you can add features that you might not get with a standard type gazebo, such as windows, special molding, wider steps, benches, and so on.

What are advantages of different type material?

The last of five questions to ask when considering a gazebo has to do with material. In most cases, three types of material are used, which include pine, cedar, and vinyl. For pine, this is pressure treated and extremely strong. Because of that, it will last a lifetime and most are guaranteed against termite and rot damage. Cedar is also a very popular choice in that it looks beautiful and is naturally resistant to termites and rot. However, cedar generally looks nicer when stained or painted so there would be minor upkeep. Finally, vinyl is a low maintenance material that is strong and sometimes covered with treated pine. That means while you pay less for a vinyl gazebo, you still get beauty and sound structure of pine option.