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In May 2000, rabble-rouser George Speight and assorted thugs seized
Parliament building in Suva, turning Fiji on its head. Speight's pro-indigenous rhetoric struck a chord in Yasawas. Villagers from Nacula Island staged a mini-coup on Turtle Island, locking Evanson in one of his 14 luxurious bungalows as village youths rode wildly around Nanuya Levu on Evanson's golf carts.
When excitement died down, plaited mats were spread and kava roots were pounded, and over many bowls of grog, Evanson and villagers came to an understanding.
Rather than killing golden goose, Evanson convinced Nacula people that they'd be better off opening resorts of their own and allowing him to continue running his business in peace.
Evanson offered interest-free construction loans and promotional support, and Nacula Tikina Tourism Association was born. The association's Web site (www.fijibudget.com) currently describes a dozen locally-operated resorts around Blue Lagoon in central Yasawas, including three existing properties on Tavewa. All resort operators must conform to a strict code of conduct intended to preserve environment and guarantee acceptable levels of service. Though primitive compared to luxurious Mamanuca resorts off Nadi, Yasawa backpacker camps provide basic food and accommodations at a relatively low price.
The mass influx of backpackers only began in 2002 when Awesome Adventures (www.awesomefiji.com), a subsidiary of New Zealand-owned South Sea Cruises, launched a fast catamaran service up and down chain. You can now depart Nadi's Denarau Marina on Yasawa Flyer any morning at 9:15 a.m. and be at resort of your choice in time for lunch. As many as 150 backpackers do this every day and village-operated resorts on Kuata, Wayasewa, Waya, Naviti, Tavewa, Nacula, Nanuya Lailai, and Matacawa Levu are booming.
Reservations can be made upon arrival at Nadi Airport through any one of a dozen 24-hour travel agencies right in airport terminal itself. All of these offices sell catamaran tickets with a bus transfer to harbor included. Deluxe lodgings and gourmet food should not be expected at any of Yasawa resorts—yet friendly people, spectacular natural beauty, and low prices make most travelers overlook these inconveniences.
David Stanley is the author of Moon Handbooks Fiji http://www.southpacific.org/fiji.html and his online guide to Fiji may be perused at http://www.southpacific.org/text/finding_fiji.html
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