Calking joints is done by packing them with strands of oakum. A yarning iron is helpful in getting oakum well pushed down. When joint is about two-thirds full, hammer it all down tight. Fill remainder of opening with molten lead.

When lead is cooler but not set, tap lightly around hub. When it is cool, pound with more force. The stack base end should point toward your septic tank or sewer. I would install lavatory basin next. Part 3 goes on top of part I. You'll find that this fitting will slip up and down in part I. This allows you to adjust height of lavatory basin.

This fitting has three tappings. One is for lavatory basin, second is for kitchen sink, and third for laundry tubs if there are any. Close any unused tappings with cast-iron plugs. Before calking fitting 3, mark on wall where waste pipe from each fixture will enter wall.

Adjust height of part 3 so that height of lower tapping is at same height as lowest waste pipe. Then lower part 3 about 1/4 inch per foot of horizontal run to allow for drainage. You are now ready to calk this fitting as you did parts I and 2.

The next step is to install vent pipe. Measure distance from top of part 3 to about I foot above roof. Cut and thread pipe and screw it into lavatory fitting 3. Some systems use an increaser at top of this pipe. If you are going to use cottage only during summer, increaser is an unnecessary part.

Use a standard vent-pipe flashing around top of pipe. You're over worst of it now. The only thing left to do is to run various pipes from fixtures to parts I and 3. Drum trap (4) should be installed below floor, trap cover down, between tub or shower and closet-tub fitting (I).

Where it is necessary to make turns in drainage lines, use 90-degree fittings. To install seat, place closet bolts in closet collar so that threaded ends extend upward through flange. Set collar in floor over top of closet bend and calk in place (5, 6, and 7). The asbestos gasket that comes with seat should be put over closet bottom outlet, seat moved into place, and nuts tightened.

There is drainage system of your cottage--except for disposal unit. If there is a central disposal system or sewer that you can use, it is probable that connections to it will have to be made by a licensed plumber. On other hand, if you are going to install a septic tank, you will want to read on into next section to find out what to do.

There are many types of roofing materials that can be used on your cabin. To some extent, choice of materials will depend upon whether roof is pitched or flat. The table on page 120 indicates whether you should use a roll or shingle type of roofing material.

Asphalt shingles require a roof pitch of at least 4 inches to each lineal horizontal foot. When pitch is this low, most manufacturers of roofing materials recommend that roofing felt or asphalt-saturated building paper be laid under shingle roof. If your roof has any valleys, I'd suggest that you start your work by laying heavy roofing felt down center of valley.

One layer of felt, 18 inches wide, should be laid face down. Then a second layer, full width, should be laid face up. After this is nailed down, you can start laying under roofing felt or paper. Manufacturers' recommendations vary, but you'll be pretty safe if edges overlap about 2 inches horizontally.

Start with lowest part of your roof. Let edges of paper overlap end of roof by 2 or 3 inches. This overlap should be cut later, a little under first shingle course. The next layer of paper will overlap lower one by 2 inches. Continue this process to peak of roof.

When both sides of roof are finished, lay one width of paper over ridge pole. Short wide-head roofing nails should be used with this paper. When paper has been put down, use a carpenter's chalk line, which is impregnated with chalk, and snap guidelines for shingles. If your shingle exposure is 4 inches, you will want to snap chalk lines with this spacing all way from first course to last at top.

You are now ready to start laying shingles. The first course of shingles should be laid double and should extend % inch beyond roof edge. The guidelines on paper will align overlap which each course will have. The last rows at top will have to be cut; and a strip of granulated roofing paper, a metal cap, or a ridge piece, or shingles laid edgewise will be required to finish top as shown in illustration.

Wood shingles are laid much as asphalt shingles are except that they are not butted on sides. Leave a %-inch space between shingles. The ridge piece can be made of wood strips as shown in illustration.

Roll roofing is one of easiest types to apply. The accompanying illustration shows how this is done. You'll note that there is an overlap that is cemented down and nailed. This overlap varies with type of roofing felt used.

One type has half of width granulated, remainder heavy felt. The granulated section is left exposed, and felt part is cemented and nailed. This type can also be used on roofs having only enough pitch to drain water, provided that roofing boards are first covered with roofing mastic.

Flat or pitched roofs can be covered with a number of materials, but one of least expensive methods is to build up roof with a number of layers of roofing felt saturated with asphalt binder. The illustration shows how this is done. A cold roofing compound or hot pitch may be used as a binder.

Regardless of above directions, be sure to follow manufacturer's directions for applying his particular roofing material.