Continue to do this until you have required number of steps, 8 in this case. This first riser is always shorter by thickness of steps, for us that is 1.5". This makes first riser 5-5/8".

Cut 'em out Now use you circular saw to cut out stringers (technical name for 2x12 with stair marks on it) being sure to cut on waste side of line. When you cut into corner with a circular saw blade misses some of wood on bottom side of board. This is fine, simply cut up to line and stop, then finish cut with your hand saw.

Now use first stringer as a template for other two. Lay stringer onto 2x12's and trace around it. Then cut out other stringers same as first.

Reinforce stringers Align one of 8' 2x4's along bottom edge of string and mark it to fit profile of ends of stringers. Cut 2x4 and secure it to bottom edge of stringer. Repeat this for one other stringer. These help to strengthen stringers and reduce "bounce" in stairs. Use framing nails to secure them.

Assemble stairs The plywood is used to attach stairs to deck. Secure sheet of plywood to top end of stringers. The two outside stringers are nailed flush with edge of plywood while third stringer is centered on sheet. Simply nail through plywood into face of stringers using framing nails. 4 into each stringer will be enough.

Now take 45" 2x6 and nail it in between bottom of outside stringers. The 2x6 will fit into notch cut into center stringer. This provides right spacing for bottom of stairs and secures them to pad.

Attach them to deck Move stairs into their final position. make sure they are level across stringers and that risers are plumb. When stairs are positioned correctly nail through plywood into side of deck. Use some 3" concrete nails to secure 2x6 spacer to concrete pad.

Install treads Cut 8 - 8' 2x6's in half, be sure to cut them square. Starting at bottom of stairs, start placing 2x6 stair treads. Simply center them on stringers and use some 3"deck nails to attach them. You can also use an exterior adhesive to assure that they don't move.

Continue to work your way up stairs until you reach top.

You are done... well, almost Railings. You need to install a railing to keep people from falling off.

Trust me, you don't want to replace your old aluminum windows with new construction vinyl windows. You want to use either replacement frame like one used to replace wood sash windows, or something called a retrofit frame , that is popular in west where stucco is a common exterior. Since procedure for measuring is same regardless of frame style chosen, this article will discuss proper measuring procedure, and future articles will explain difference in installation process for replacement versus retrofit.

If you look at portion of aluminum frame that goes around window opening into your surrounding walls, you will see three separate "legs" that form two pockets. The outside leg and center leg form first pocket. Your screen and stationary panel will be in this pocket. The center leg and inside leg form second pocket, and your sliding panel is in that pocket. Find "leg" that is widest on all four sides. When measuring width, run your tape measure from widest leg on left to widest leg on right. This should be narrowest measurement. Then, subtract 3/8" from that measurement. This is width of replacement window. Measure height same way. When measuring height, measure as close to center of window as possible. This is especially important on windows wider than six feet, because top wood header has a tendency to sag over time, making center of opening narrowest. You don't need to deduct 3/8" from height like you did on width. 1/4" is fine. These are dimensions you use when ordering your vinyl window. If you have any picture windows(windows without a vent panel), there will only be two legs and one pocket. You still measure same way.

Next week i will discuss whether your home is a candidate for retrofit frames or replacement frames.