ANY BREAK IS A GOOD BREAKWritten by Laura Glendinning
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If you're into food, Vegas can be frustrating. Bargain buffets notwithstanding, to-order food is often pricey and mediocre. You can always count on chains for consistency (Vegas has branches of California Pizza Kitchen, Wolfgang Puck's, Chin Chin, and tons more), but part of a vacation is to try something new. We found two gems last visit. The two new places were both at venerable Ceasers, a survivor from Rat Pack era which keeps re-inventing itself and staying near top of competitive heap on Strip. At Palm restaurant (also in NY and L.A.) there is a businessman's lunch for $15.95 - choice of soup or salad, choice of fish or filet mignon (!), and coffee. Wines by glass are pricey but excellent. One of Caeser's food courts features such offerings as good southern bbq, roasted turkey sandwiches, and above average pastries. As for dinner, we can't resist our old standby - The Four Seasons' Verandah restaurant. Their three course dinner special for around $30 is a great deal - cooked by a chef (not a kitchen worker), and always with a carefully designed menu. One night we learned there was most definitely a chef on hand as man himself - beefy and affable - came out of kitchen to talk when we had a question about how he made such perfect fish. I still use his halibut recipe - hot pan on stove top, almost finish fish, then transfer it to a cold un-oiled pan in a hot oven - but I digress. Even during very hot summer, night time outdoor dining at Four Seasons is quite pleasant, as you can sit by pool. It's hard to come by quiet in Vegas, but here you get it - there is no gambling in Four Seasons. If you want to gamble after dinner at Verandah, hotel is joined to Mandalay Bay by an air conditioned lobby. We left town next day, stopping at Ceasers , our new casual dining spot, for good coffee for road - and contemplated a last attempt at Ripley's slots. We decided to skip it and call it even when we learned valet parking outside coffee shop was free. We got on Interstate 15 and joined weekday throng of truckers headed into California. Traffic was light 'cuz thanks to driving an off time. We cruise to Interstate 10 and can't be at kennel soon enough for dogs. I am sure dogs know when we are getting close but I always call kennel keeper to warn her. Humans need advance notice for what dogs already know. The sound of an approaching car sets off every dog in kennel but barking settles down once fellas see us and know they are hopping in convertible and heading home. Bert shepherd sits in middle facing forward to make sure we are following right route. The other two mutts, Buster and Louie, lounge in back, hanging their heads out window, kennel already forgotten. We never make trip home without a few kids waving and pointing at funny people with three dogs. At least picking them up involves a lot less guilt than dropping them off, but sorry boys - there will always be another three day weekend ahead.
Laura is a travel and screenplay writer living in Los Angeles, CA. She is also content director for www.threedayweekends.com, a on-line travel site.
| | TrekShare.com - Crashing a wedding in Laos - Part 1Written by Joseph Kultgen
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spicy beef, spingrolls, fresh vegetables and a giant vat of sticky rice. Within seconds of loading up our plates two drunkest 20-year olds at party pulled up four chairs for us. One for our plates and other for our asses. Before even taking my first bit I had a 1/3 glass full of BeerLao between my eyes. This is where story takes a dramatic twist. It is not because I started drinking. That’s a little later. The twist is because this story is being composed for Break Magazine and they don’t allow any references to drugs or alcohol. Therefore I have written two versions. The one where I drink myself to a point where I believe I can understand Lao language is version you are reading. Although we were given utensils I chose to forego westernization of land and eat using dipping technique utilized by most people. Three bites in and once again a 1/3 full glass of BeerLao is between my eyes. The young man offering glass was pimped out in a black tuxedo and appeared to be kind of guy whom you should accept a drink from. Another "kop chi li li", a swig from his glass and we were friends. I pulled up another chair for special guest and we began to speak. The conversation took a slow start. Not because of tuxedo man, but rather because I had been so used to talking to people who spoke absolutely no English, that I was conversing like a trained monkey. Shortly into conversation I learned Pond was indeed honored guest at what I learned was his wedding. The handsome 24-year old had just been hitched and he oozed elation. As I scarified down my food I learned he works for Lao government as an AIDS educator. He also told us about a cousin of his who lives in NYC and his desire to my town. My door will always be open. Laotian men usually marry in there twenties. The bride is usually younger. She will most likely be from same village and will probably be related in some degree because most villages are small. Couples choose each other, but heads of both families decide when couple will marry, where they will live, and what bride price must be paid to girl’s father. This is usually in currency, although in olden times it was in livestock or grain. The groom’s family delivers bride price to bride’s father on day before wedding. The groom’s relative’s parade to bride’s house with gifts of food, tobacco, betel and so on. The groom makes his formal request for bride. Her family, after a long-winded, purely ceremonial show of reluctance finally agrees. In presence of a bonze or village elder, couple is officially betrothed. The next day, groom and his relatives again proceed to bride’s house, where they make a great show of fighting and bribe their way into yard. The groom must persuade bride’s sister to wash his feet before he can ascend steps to house and claim his bride. Divorce is rare in Laos, partly because each marriage concerns everyone in two large, extended families. If a marriage is dissolved, bride price has to be returned, and there are endless complications concerning inheritance and land use. It is much more sensible to compromise. Working things out, in general, is Laotian response to almost every conflict. Isn’t that a novel idea? In background we watched nucleus of party dance. Thankfully there are no traditions of Marquerena or chicken dance in Laos. This is one of things I’m happiest about. Tonight they danced Lamvong. It’s a combination folk dance and courting ritual. Girls dance in place with short, rhythmic steps, while boys weave circles around them; no one touches. The faces of dancers are completely expressionless, but their arms and hands wave in complicated patterns expressive of love and devotion. Frankly, unless you are Laotian, you will end up looking like a queen doing this jig. The groom apologized to us that party we crashed was almost over. He insisted we accompany him to parents of his wife’s house for an after party. The two guys sitting next to us indicated that they would escort us to party. Pond cordially dismissed himself and affirmed our attendance. As soon as 48-ounce bottle of BeerLao was cashed we would head out. As pace and amount of beer in glass increased I decided to engage transportation question. I was pretty sure these guys had scooters. Frankly I’m not a big fan of riding on back of those things in any situation. In addition, I was positive both these guys were half in bag. Through struggled words and gulps of beer I asked our new friends about drinking and driving.
Joseph Kultgen is co-founder of www.trekshare.com and has been writing the monthly newsletter - TrekNews - for the past 3 years. He is a contributer to STA Travel and Gap literature as well as a co-creator of TrekTV.
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