Step 4: Truing second face

The thickness planer is by far best tool to accomplish this. On jointer it is simple to get second face true but it is quite difficult to get it parallel to first.

The thickness planer guides board and makes second face exactly parallel to first. Once second face is true and parallel to first continue to plane board until it reaches finished thickness, in this case 5/8". Remember to feed stock with grain to ensure a smooth clean cut. Step 5: Square one edge

Back to jointer for this step. Set jointer fence so it is exactly 90 degrees to table and be sure cutting depth is set to 1/16". Determine direction of grain and place on face against jointer fence and make a pass through cutter applying steady pressure against fence.

Once you are satisfied that edge and face are square to each other mark edge for reference.

Step 6: Square other edge

Now that you have one edge prepared it is back to table saw to rip board to width. Set fence 4-9/16" (1/16" larger then needed). With marked edge against table saw fence rip board. Now return to jointer and make one final pass, milling new sawn edge. Be sure that jointer is set to 1/16".

Step 7: Squaring ends

I prefer to use a table saw to square end and cut board to length although a table saw with a miter gauge will work as well. Check that your miter saw is cutting a true 90 degrees and when you are sure it is trim one end of board, taking as little off as possible. Now measure finished width of 30" and make cut taking care to cut on waste side of line. Conclusion:

You should now have a board that is 30" x 4-1/2 " x 5/8" with all four sides square to one another.

There are a number of methods that will work for milling a board square; however I have always had good luck using this method.

About the Author:

If your needle thread tension is stronger, your bobbin thread will be pulled to top of your fabric. If your bobbin thread tension is stronger, needle thread will be visible on underside of your fabric. When tension is just right and evenly balanced, stitch will lock in middle, halfway between top and bottom of your fabric. This is what you want and have to find. It might take some playing around with your tension guide, but worth extra bit of time it takes.

TEST - TEST- TEST

The easiest way to test your tension is to thread your machine and put one colour thread in your machine with a totally different colour in your bobbin. Neither one should match your fabric. You need to examine your stitches.

If your tension is too tight, you will see your bobbin thread on top.

If your tension is too loose, you will see your top thread on bottom of fabric.

If your tension is correct, you will see machine thread only on top of fabric and bobbin thread only on underside of fabric.

MAKING ADJUSTMENTS:

BEFORE you start adjusting your tension, make these three checks. This is very important.

1. Be certain your machine is threaded properly. Even long time sew-ers can miss a thread guide.

2. Be sure your bobbin is properly installed.

3. Make sure your needle is inserted properly.

After going thru three checks, you may have to adjust tension in order to sew a good stitch. Check your manual to see how this is done. Each time you have adjusted, sew a line of stitching. You should only have to make small, slight adjustments to correct your stitch.

If after what seems like an eternity of changes, you still don't have a balanced stitch, leave your machine. Don't even look at it for a few hours, maybe a day or so. Then go back and try again. It could be you are tired, frustrated or distracted. It happens to all of us.

Or, it could be that your bobbin needs adjusting. Most sewing machine manufacturers don't want you to adjust your bobbin tension. If your manual doesn't cover this area, then it is best to take your sewing machine in to a dealer or reputable repair man.

Happy Sewing!